Into Big Bend National Park

15 03 2013
Rio Grande Village Campground

Rio Grande Village Campground

We’re on the road again, leaving Lajitas for the short trip to the west entrance gate of Big Bend National Park. Once inside the park, we’re bound for Rio Grande Village which is slightly north and east of the river’s “U-turn”. From the Terlingua/Study Butte entrance it’s about 50 miles down to Rio Grande Village. This is the most accessible campground and provides the best options for an site without a reservation. The NPS campground at Rio Grande Village has 100 no-hookup sites, only 46 are reservable online. We’re hoping for an available walk-up site of “un-reservable” 54, even though spring break is in full swing in Texas. Our “back-up” plan is at a full-hookup campground run by a private concessionaire. But these spots, even though they have full hookups, are less than ideal – they are all back-in sites set along a long narrow paved parking lot. There are green areas with trees behind the RV rows, but certainly not what we come to the National Park for.

Rio Grande Village Campground

Rio Grande Village Campground

After arriving around noon, we’re pleased to find plenty of walk-up sites available. The camp host is most helpful pointing out easy-access sites and the “no-generator” zone. We opt for site #70 a small pull-through outside of the “no-generator” zone and fairly near the entrance. For the most part, these sites are smaller and many have overhanging tree limbs that could get in the way of bigger rigs. The roads throughout the campground are paved, some sites have a partial paved pad but most are gravel. Each site has a picnic table an above-ground grill and a “beast box”. These metal boxes are fairly large (big enough for several coolers), secured by “bear proof” latches and used to keep all food products away from the roaming bear and javalinas. There are water hydrants scattered around the campground, but the only threaded connection for filling RV fresh water tanks is just outside the park near the RV dump station. There are also restrooms with dish washing sinks scattered through the park. Once you’ve paid your NPS entrance fee of $20 (for 7 days), the camping fee is $14/night payable with either cash or credit card. You’re basically “off-the-grid” here, the last cellular service was a weak signal around Panther Junction. There is an open WiFi hotspot provided just down the road at Rio Grande Village store for those that can’t avoid a quick tweet or email.

Rio Grande Village Group Camping

Rio Grande Village Group Camping

River from Rio Grande Village Campground

River from Rio Grande Village Campground

Roadrunner Campsite Visitor

Roadrunner Campsite Visitor

River from Rio Grande Village Campground

River from Rio Grande Village Campground

There are two other campgrounds in the park, Cottonwood near the SW corner and Chisos Basin in the center of the park. The road to “the Basin” as it’s called by park staff, could be a bit of a challenge for any but the shortest coaches or trailers. But, once you arrive at the campground the challenge will be even greater finding a place to park. Some of the sites are large enough, but the road within the campground has some sharp, tight turns. If you are headed to Chisos with a larger RV, you’d be well advised to drive the road without the rig first and find a campsite that will accommodate. One advantage of Chisos is the elevation – located at 5410 feet, it was nearly 20 degrees cooler than at Rio Grande Village at 1850’ elevation. We didn’t visit Cottonwood campground, but there are no specific warning issued about large rigs by the park service.





The Road to Presidio

14 03 2013
Rio Grande

Rio Grande

Today we traveled the famed River Road, Farm to Market 170 often selected as one of the most scenic drives in Texas. Skirting the Rio Grande for 50 miles from Lajitas to Presidio the road wanders along the river crooks and rock cliffs, sometimes low in the canyon, sometimes climbing to dramatic vantage points. Leaving Lajitas and entering the Big Bend Ranch State Park, you come first to the small ghost town of Contrabando. The site is open to the public and has been used as a set for several movies including the Lonesome Dove miniseries. Further along, only 16 miles east of Presidio, is the small farming community of Redford. Presidio is the only international commercial crossing between El Paso and Del Rio. Much of the commerce comes from sister city Ojinaga, Mexico, a community isolated from the rest of Mexico by the extremely rough terrain of the Sierra Madre mountains. Presidio is an ideal “resupply” location for long stays in the Terlingua/Lajitas areas with a couple gas stations, a few auto parts stores, a Thriftway food market and a handful of restaurants.

Rio Grande

Rio Grande

Rio Grande

Rio Grande





Along the Rio Grande

13 03 2013

We arrived in Lajitas just after 4pm on Tuesday to find our first 80 degree weather.  Quickly the sweatshirts were stowed and jeans replaced with shorts.  Our trip down from Fort Davis was just over 4 hours with a refueling and food replenishment stop in Alpine.  We also stopped at the Ace Hardware before leaving Fort Davis for some plumbing repair tools and fittings.  (more on our leaking water system later)

Maverick Ranch RV Park

Maverick Ranch RV Park

Lajitas was originally conceived as a very exclusive golf resort & hideaway on what is basically a dead-end road between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park along the Rio Grande river and Mexican border.  The first clients jetted into the private landing field from Midland, Austin, Dallas/Ft. Worth and other large Texas cities.  The resort known for opulence, exclusivity and remote location survived until 2006 when loans could not be paid.  In late 2007 a partnership from Dallas took over the resort, stripping it of the exclusive image, hoping to attract more clients as well as large tournaments.  Things were going well until disaster struck in September of 2008 when Tropical Storm Lowell dumped what some called a “500 year flood” forcing Mexican officials to open flood gates on upstream dams.  The river ran a quarter mile wide and 13 feet deep through Lajitas.  Parts of “The Ambush” course were underwater for over 4 weeks – and when un-submerged quickly burned up due to the irrigation system being lost.  The back nine of The Ambush course – which included the famed “international” hole that allowed players to tee up a shot in the United States and hit to a green in Mexico, and four holes on an island in the river, were damaged beyond repair and never rebuilt.  Today the course stands on a higher embankment above the flood plain of the river.

Former 'International" Hole at Lajitas

Former ‘International” Hole at Lajitas

Rio Grande at Lajitas

Rio Grande at Lajitas

Former back-nine at Lajitas

Former back-nine at Lajitas

The RV park at Lajitas, the Maverick Ranch, is north of the resort just at the base of the famed Lajitas Plateau.  101 full hookup sites (about 50 include cable TV) are arranged in rows that feature shared “back-to-back” facility pedestals.  Most have a concrete pad, a few with picnic tables and scrubby grass between the sites. A few long deep sites around the edges offer more privacy and even a few shade trees.  There is a very nice clubhouse/office building at the entrance and a laundry, shower, pool area in the services building at the rear of the property.  Full resort services (golf, spa, shopping) are available for RV’ers.  The park’s WiFi service was included in the site rate and adequate for our needs.  There was spotty T-Mobile service and no Verizon service.





In the Davis Mountains

11 03 2013

We’ve arrived in Ft. Davis, a small western-feeling town surrounded by the Davis Mountains of  Southwest Texas.

Old Texas Inn, Ft. Davis

Old Texas Inn, Ft. Davis

Jeff Davis County Courthouse

Jeff Davis County Courthouse

Indian Lodge

Indian Lodge

We’ve visited Fort Davis a number of time – one of the first was before the camper or trailer when we stayed in Indian Lodge. Located within Davis Mountains State Park, Indian Lodge was built in the 1930’s by the CCC and has been meticulous enhanced and maintained by Texas State Parks. Considered the “crown jewel” of the Texas CCC structures, the Lodge includes 39 guest rooms, meeting space, an onsite restaurant, swimming pool and access to miles of hiking trails throughout the park. In addition to the Lodge is a 94 site RV campground with full hookups. Unfortunately there is no cellular or WiFi access in the park so we didn’t stay in the park.

Harlan J. Smith 107-inch Telescope

Harlan J. Smith 107-inch Telescope

Another attraction that has brought us to the Fort Davis area is the MacDonald Observatory. We attended a Star Party during our first visit and stay at Indian Lodge. These open to the public gatherings generally occur during dark moon phases (except during Spring Break when they are more regular) and include fun and information for the entire family. The 22-inch and 16-inch telescopes are available for viewing during the evening parties along with staff and researchers that demonstrate aspects of our solar system, point out easy-to-see objects and any special night-sky events. We were so fascinated by the work at MacDonald that several years later we returned for a much more intimate program when the 107-inch Harlan J Smith telescope is opened to the public. The “Dinner and Viewing” evening starts with dinner served in the Astronomers Lounge, where professional and students stay during research projects at MacDonald. After dinner the small group is lead into the telescope where the dome is slowly opened to reveal the night sky from high atop Mount Locke. Led by a professional astronomer, the program includes plenty of viewing opportunities, open question/answer sessions and background into how modern-day star study is done. This is a 10-12 times per year presentation – make reservations early.

Our stay in Fort Davis was at a small RV campground hosted by the Fort Davis Motor Inn. 14 sites in a small grove of cottonwood trees behind the hotel provide full hookups (with snowy TV cable signals) enhanced with laundry and shower-house access. Things are apparently in the midst of upgrades, the laundry isn’t functional and the showers were in need of cleaning and refurbishment. If you are completely self-contained or only need hookups, this is a good option for a close-to-town and quiet park. The cellular coverage was good, and the motel’s WiFi signal was adequate. After spending two fairly chilly and windy days, we’ve opted to continue south to Lajitas. More from the banks of the Rio Grande!

From Fort Davis Motor Inn RV Park

From Fort Davis Motor Inn RV Park

From Fort Davis Motor Inn RV Park

From Fort Davis Motor Inn RV Park

From Fort Davis Motor Inn RV Park

From Fort Davis Motor Inn RV Park





Sunrise over New Mexico

10 03 2013
Brantley Lake State Park

Brantley Lake State Park

We’re just staying ahead of the cold front that dumped show on Colorado Front Range area and has scattered snow, ice and rain showers as far south as Ft. Sumner, NM. We passed through Ft. Sumner yesterday on our way toward Carlsbad. We’re just a few miles north of Carlsbad at Brantley Lake State Park. Along the way we learned that Ft. Sumner is “famous” for being the last resting place of Billy the Kid. The history of his exact gravesite and headstone is filled with gunfights, Pecos River floods, stolen markers and even two competing “museums”, each of which claim to have the authentic effects of the gunfighter. The web is full of wonderful information about The Kid, and we didn’t take the time to stop and pay for admission to either of the museums. Leaving Ft. Sumner we continued south on Highway 20 for about 50 miles to intersect with Highway 285. This probably isn’t the optimal route for smooth roads – NM highway 20 is very rough, giving the truck and trailer suspension a good workout. Highway 54 directly to 285 would probably be a better option (but, you’d miss the Billy the Kid gravesite).

After a quick resupply stop at the Albertson’s in Roswell, we arrived at the State Park around 3pm. Surprisingly the campground was filling quickly with only 3 sites on the reservation loop (sites 1-30) and 6 or so on the first-come first-serve loop (sites 30-60) We’re in site #51. The sites all have water and electric hookups, a grill and covered picnic table. Set up on a bluff visible from 285, the campground would almost be completely surrounded by water during full lake conditions. But, with the amount of growth around the banks, this Pecos River impound hadn’t been at high levels in a long, long time. There is also a clean bathhouse, a group shelter and a kids playground in the center of the campground. The sites are spaced well apart, and with leaves on the trees many would be very private. The cellular service is the only down-side, on the Verizon network there is very weak 2G signal, on T-Mobile there is a fairly week 3G signal. We’d stay here again, but only during “non-work” time.

Brantley Lake State Park

Brantley Lake State Park

Brantley Lake State Park

Brantley Lake State Park

Brantley Lake State Park

Brantley Lake State Park

Today we’ll leave New Mexico and cross into the Central Time Zone of west Texas. We’re headed to Ft. Davis – more from there later.





Along Route 66

9 03 2013

Good Morning from Historic Route 66!

Club Cafe on Route 66

Club Cafe on Route 66

Route 66 is one of the original US highways, long before the interstate system was established, dating back to the 1920’s. The original route traveled from Chicago to Los Angeles passing through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. Here in Santa Rosa, the route was a prosperous way point for travelers seeking their fortunate from the dustbowl of the Midwest to the anticipated relief of new growth along the west coast.

After departing Trinidad we’ve traveled almost directly south to Santa Rosa, NM. As seems to be the norm, winds over Raton pass and on to Las Vegas, NM were strong and gusty. Our normal fuel range of about 500 miles per tank dropped to just over 200 miles! Once we turned west on I-40 we had a tailwind, but only for about 40 miles. Our first stop was at Santa Rosa Lake State Park, about 15 miles north of I-40 along the Pecos River. Unfortunately all of the camping areas are down low along the dam and there is absolutely no cell service. We opted to move back to town for cell coverage and WiFi. We’re parked at Santa Rosa Campground & RV Park, right on Route 66 and only a few blocks from I-40 exit 275. This former KOA park is in fairly good shape. The sites are mostly level offering water and electric along with optional cable TV and sewer. In the main office building is a laundry facility and shower house, the outdoor pool and a BBQ restaurant. Their baby back ribs were sizeable portions, and the baked beans were awesome. The restaurant was quiet, as there are only about 12 rigs in this 60 site park. They also offer delivery service to your site. The cell coverage here is good, their WiFi spotty and slow. Their advertised 100MB isn’t close – the best I could achieve is just under 1MB in a speed test and about 200K on a long download or streaming Hulu. The T-Mobile service is a strong 4G signal

Santa Rosa Campground & RV Park

Santa Rosa Campground & RV Park

Santa Rosa Campground & RV Park

Santa Rosa Campground & RV Park

The weather maps from Denver and Albuquerque are quite colorful with various storm watches and warnings. The website from home is already noting about 3 inches of the white stuff – with estimates of up to 18”. We’re glad to be south of the storm, and only encountering the winds along the edge. Tomorrow we’re headed to another New Mexico State Park, Brantley Lake just north of Carlsbad. Cellular service *appears* to be good, but we’ll have a backup of another RV park in Carlsbad available just in case.

More from Southern New Mexico!





Trinidad Lake State Park

8 03 2013

Good Morning from Trinidad and the start of the 2013 Texas Road trip!

Trinidad Lake State Park

Trinidad Lake State Park

After a late arrival last night we’ve awakened to clear, sunny skies at Trinidad Lake State Park. We’re in site #6, our favorite full hookup site. There are plenty of more private sites, but those only have electric. We needed the water hookup to make it easier to de-winterize the trailer, clearing out the “pink stuff”. It’s chilly this morning, around 30 – but headed for a high of nearly 60. This site has a slight downward slope which is ideal because the trailer doesn’t have to be unhitched. There’s an uncovered picnic table and a fire ring in the site. The hookups are top-notch, each in a clean, gravel filled enclosure. The water pressure is low, but we’re using the fresh water tank so other than a slow fill, things work fine.

We’re headed out of what appears to be a fairly major winter storm around the Denver area. Local (Colorado Springs) TV stations are forecasting up to 14” of snow along the front range. Even here in Trinidad there is a chance of snow tonight and tomorrow. But, we’re headed for Santa Rosa, NM where the forecast is for windy travel and a 30% chance of rain tonight and tomorrow morning. Hopefully we’ll miss the cold temps and snow! After Santa Rosa we’ll make 1 more stop in New Mexico before crossing into Texas. We’re planning to be in the Ft. Davis area by Sunday. We’ll spend 3 or 4 days around Ft. Davis before we continue south toward Big Bend National Park.

Texas Road Trip 2013

Texas Road Trip 2013

More from New Mexico!





Breckenridge 2013 Snow Sculptures

28 01 2013

First Place / Gold and People’s Choice and Artist’s Choice: Team Mongolia “Mongolian Warriors”

Second Place / Silver: Team Catalonia-Spain “Banyista Nua” (Homage to Picasso)

Third Place / Bronze: Team Estonia “Koit”

Kids’ Choice: Team Canada-Yukon “An Inuit Moral Tale”

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Along Chalk Creek

30 09 2012
Chalk Creek #20

Chalk Creek #20

We’re about half-way home from Taos and have stopped at Chalk Creek Campground just south of Buena Vista. Situated right along highway 285, the park is split into two parts, the “upper” and “lower” campgrounds. In the upper campground there are about 30 full hookup sites. There is virtually no vegetation and little privacy on the upper campground, most sites are level gravel pull-throughs with a picnic table and fire ring. The 28 electric only sites in the lower campground are set in a large grove of cottonwood trees along Chalk Creek. There are also 12 tent sites which range from a shared meadow area to a few that have creek access.

We’re parked in site #20, a premium site for creek access complete with a picnic table and fire pit. There are only 4 other RV’s in the lower campground, but with all sites full, there would be considerable less space and privacy. While we didn’t use any of the other facilities, the camp store provides necessities such as ice and firewood, there is a highly rated shower house, a recreation and video game room and a playground. There is full strength T-Mobile service, but weak Verizon broadband coverage. The WiFi is complimentary and seems to work well for online browsing however Hulu viewing was problematic, requiring frequent pauses to buffer. With just a short overnight stay, we didn’t take advantage of many of the amenities, but agreed that Chalk Creek is a possibility for early next spring or again late in the fall.





Biking the Gorge

29 09 2012
Rio Grande Gorge

Rio Grande Gorge

After a beautiful New Mexico sunset, dinner and relaxing on our shared patio, it’s a quiet evening under the clear, starry Taos sky.  Today we’re headed to the Rio Grande Gorge for a bike ride along the western rim.  About 12 miles west of Taos is one of the largest suspension bridges in the nation spanning the Rio Grande river.  The bike path runs south from the gorge rest area along the western rim.  The trail starts as a single gravel track from the rest area, then joins with a rough jeep trail providing double paths in some areas.  There’s not much elevation change along the rim, but there are some technically challenging areas with fields of volcanic rock and gravel.  A mile or so from the bridge, the path is close enough to the rim for great views back to the bridge and down the gorge to the south. The trail continues for about 8 miles, we managed 6 of those for a total ride of about 12.

On the way back to Taos we stopped at the newly opened Taos Mesa Brewing  for a sampling of all 12 beers on tap.   All selections are from New Mexico, 3 brewed onsite at Taos Mesa and the remainder from Santa Fe Brewery, Chama River Brewing, La Cumbre Brewing, Marble Brewing and Abbey Brewing.  We also enjoyed snacking on the excellent green chili and corn fritters with specialty dipping sauces.  After leaving the brewery we drove up to the Taos Ski area to look around before returning to the RV Park.  We were once again treated to a gorgeous sunset and a cool, clear starry sky.  Tomorrow we’ll pack-up and move about 4 hours north and closer to home.  We plan to be at Chalk Creek RV park south of Buena Vista in time to catch at least part of the Denver Bronco game.  More from there…

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